Technology for laying engineered boards

When looking for hardwood flooring without the high upkeep, homeowners are increasingly choosing engineered wood flooring. This kind of flooring appeals to both professionals and do-it-yourselfers because it is not only more affordable than traditional hardwood flooring but also more durable.

A few crucial steps must be followed when laying engineered boards to guarantee a perfect finish. Whether you want to install your flooring with glue, nails, or floating, using the proper methods can make all the difference. Your engineered floor will look fantastic and last for a long time if you take the proper approach.

We’ll walk you through each step of the process in this guide to help you lay engineered boards professionally and with the least amount of hassle.

Step	Description
1. Surface Preparation	Ensure the subfloor is clean, dry, and level. Remove any debris or old adhesive.
2. Acclimatization	Let the engineered boards adjust to room temperature for at least 48 hours.
3. Laying the First Row	Start from a corner, placing boards with the tongue side facing the wall. Use spacers to maintain expansion gaps.
4. Stagger the Joints	Cut the last board in the first row, and use the offcut to start the next row. This creates a staggered joint pattern.
5. Continue Laying	Lay the boards row by row, ensuring a snug fit between each. Tap lightly with a mallet if necessary.
6. Finishing Touches	Remove the spacers and install baseboards or moldings to cover the expansion gaps.

Features and options for laying engineered boards

This material’s primary advantage is its ability to be installed straight onto concrete or cement-sand screed. Using plywood flooring as an alternative technique, you can easily fix any surface imperfections.

Various installation techniques exist, contingent on the particular circumstances. Depending on the kind of locking connection, you can select the optimal option:

• Groove-groove. Grooves are cut in the ends of the parts, they are fastened using a special strip – a key. Glue is used for additional fixation.
• Groove-tenon. Traditional option. The ends of the elements are equipped with a groove and a tenon; to connect the parts, they are laid out sequentially. For better fixation, they are driven in with a mallet. Final fastening is done with glue or self-tapping screws (staples).
• Click locking system. Widely used for laminate, engineered boards are supplied with such a lock only by individual order. This option is suitable for working with warm water floors.

You need to familiarize yourself with the current connection before making a purchase.

Types of bases for laying finishing material

It is advised that the material be placed on a sturdy, well-prepared base. The surfaces listed below are appropriate for work:

1. Screed. Concrete and cement. Installation is carried out taking into account the parameters of residual moisture: the optimal indicator is less than 6%, allowing you to lay parts without waterproofing. For higher values, additional protection is required.
2. Plywood. This is a traditional option for preparing foundations, which are ordinary wooden boards or poorly leveled screed. Plywood is also used for flooring on joists when more complex alignment is required.
3. Substrate. A special foam material is used for this. Substrate is required only when installing a floor using the "floating" method for a water heating system.

Work on gypsum screed bases and in the presence of an electric underfloor heating system is not advised.

To ensure a long-lasting, attractive finish, precision and the appropriate tools are needed when laying engineered boards. The boards are installed securely when the proper procedures are followed, from subfloor preparation to cautious placement and fastening. This results in a stable and long-lasting surface that improves the appearance of any space.

Methods for fastening the board

Consider the current skills as well as the characteristics of the base when determining the optimal way to lay the engineered board. This will enable you to finish the procedure without encountering any more issues.

The most dependable choice, providing the highest level of flooring durability. Only two-component polyurethane-based adhesive should be used to attach the engineered board to the screed; this will provide the necessary degree of fixation on concrete. For use with wooden flooring, a one-component composition that has been modified with silane is appropriate. Mixtures that contain water shouldn’t be used.

This method of laying technology requires the use of screws and glue (staples). This makes it possible to press the pieces firmly, resulting in rapid adhesion and a markedly improved coating’s durability.

Be aware that when inserting screws or staples into the locking connection locations, 45-degree angles must be used. Before choosing any screws, it is advisable to drill a pilot hole because the plywood base needs to be protected.

This technique works with products that have a "Click" connection. Only perfectly prepared surfaces must be used for laying; very little error is permitted. The coating’s longevity is significantly less than with earlier options because there is no connection to the base.

Sticky "in the key"

Installations of this kind are done in spaces with erratic humidity. Expanding and slightly shrinking parts can be compensated for by adding a key that joins adjacent parts. For additional fixation, glue is utilized.

Installation using adhesive or combined method

The initial stage involves getting the required instruments, gadgets, and supplies ready:

• glue and spatula or toothed roller for application;
• a special tool for driving staples or a drill (screwdriver) with suitable bits and a set of thin drills;
• screws, dowels;
• floor leveling products (plywood or finishing screed);
• mallet.

While it’s not advised, you can use nails in place of screws.

Preparing the base

Only after the finishing fill has completely dried can work on the material begin if it needs to be laid on a screed. That will take at least a month to complete. Depending on the outcome, additional steps include sanding the surface thoroughly, cleaning it of dust and debris, and applying a two-layer application of a deeply penetrating primer.

The plywood base is ready for use in the following ways:

1. Sheets at least 15 mm thick are cut into equal squares. If the work is carried out on an old wooden floor, it is first cleaned of decorative coating.
2. Plywood is laid in rows, adjacent joints should not coincide. A small compensation gap is left between the cut fragments. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening, the head must be recessed.
3. If installed logs are laid, they are carefully checked by level. If the room is on the first floor, a waterproofing film is laid beforehand. In this case, the plywood is laid in whole sheets.
4. Sanding is carried out to eliminate the remaining defects.
5. Dust and dirt are removed from the surface using a vacuum cleaner.
6. A layer of primer is applied.

There can be no more than 2 mm of variation in height for every 2 meters, regardless of the kind of base. Since priming is required to increase adhesion, you cannot disregard it.

Be aware of this! When it comes to a wooden floor, the joist direction is marked, allowing the engineered lamellas to be arranged perpendicularly.

Laying the engineered board

Instructions for installation:

1. The method of laying is determined (herringbone or deck) and a diagram is drawn up.
2. If the textures of the pattern of the parts are different, they are laid out in advance, each element is marked. Although this will take a lot of time, it will allow you to get a single canvas in the end. In addition, this procedure makes it possible to determine the trimming along the length in advance, and if necessary, prepare a template.
3. It is envisaged to shift each row in relation to the adjacent one. Work begins from the corner. Before this, marking is performed, connecting the corners diagonally. Also, cross lines are drawn through the center, having a right angle. A line is beaten off from the wall, taking into account the compensation gap of 10-15 mm, and wedges are installed. Its size should be smaller than the selected baseboard.
4. To glue the board, the composition is applied only to the base. The element must be placed on the mixture, tapped with a mallet and immediately aligned along the existing line. Excess glue is removed.
5. The remaining parts are inserted into the grooves and seated on the composition. In order not to wait for the first row to set, it can be fixed along the edge with self-tapping screws, taking into account the allowance for the baseboard.
6. For reliability, upon completion of the work, the load is distributed along the entire perimeter of the coating.

The adhesive method is essentially repeated by the combined technology; the only differences are that each part is staple-punched and self-tapping screwed. The fasteners adhere to the necessary slope and are positioned in the locations of the locking joints. The primary concern is to eliminate the screw’s protrusion, as it may impede a snug fit.

Installation in a "floating" way

Lamellas are arranged in a "floating" manner if they are not to be adhered to with glue. To accomplish this, the subsequent actions are taken:

1. The base is carefully prepared and cleaned. If required, a backing is laid on the surface.
2. Placing of parts starts from the longest wall from left to right.
3. Marking is done (as for the adhesive method), a gap is beaten off from the wall and wedges are installed.
4. The first row is laid, interfering locking joints, which are located on the extreme parts to the wall, are pre-cut. The size of the final offset of the rows is determined, a template is made.
5. The second row is mounted sequentially, each element is connected to the previous one until it clicks and is slightly driven in.
6. To ensure that the boards lie evenly, they must be constantly checked with a level and there are no gaps.

Note: Because of the thickness of the parts, this method is more difficult than working with laminate, so you should practice beforehand. This will help to avoid problems.

For an engineered floor to be both strong and beautiful, the boards must be laid correctly. From preparation to installation, if you follow the right procedures, you can guarantee a seamless and durable finish.

A high-quality finish can be achieved by taking the time to acclimate the boards, prepare the subfloor, and carefully position each piece. Recall that during the installation process, paying close attention to detail makes all the difference.

Adhering to the suggested methods will enable you to produce a stunning and dependable floor that improves the appearance of your room, regardless of your level of experience doing DIY projects or the installation process.

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