The adhesive method of applying ceramic tiles to walls is a widely used technique that provides both interior and exterior surfaces with a polished appearance and longevity. Because of this method’s dependability and wide range of design possibilities, it has become widely used.
The adhesive method is preferred because it’s easy to apply and creates a strong bond that keeps the tiles in place for a long time. It’s an adaptable method that works well for a range of construction projects because it can be used on different kinds of walls.
It’s crucial to adhere to certain rules and regulations, like those stated in the SNiP (Building Codes and Regulations), in order to get the greatest results. These guidelines aid in guaranteeing that the tile installation satisfies all applicable performance and safety standards in addition to being aesthetically beautiful.
- Standards for facing work
- Vertical surfaces: preparation for facing
- Sequence of preparatory work
- Tiled cladding
- Which glue is better
- Gluing tiles
- Video on the topic
- Ceramic tile wall cladding
- SVP-101 | Self-adhesive vinyl tile StickerWall
- Ceramic tile wall cladding. Video tutorial.mp4
- Technology of cladding walls with ceramic tiles on adhesive mortar, using the "seam to seam" method
- The subtleties of laying tiles on uneven walls
Standards for facing work
The aforementioned document is still in effect despite having been adopted nearly thirty years ago. It merely provides a broad overview of cladding technology, ignoring the capabilities of contemporary primer compositions and building mixtures (see Types of construction primers and their scope of application). To put it plainly, there are no personal SNiPs for ceramic tile facing walls.
Homeowners who wish to tackle the facade themselves and in compliance with all regulations would therefore be well advised to consult the TTK (standard technological maps) for clarification. As for us, we will make an effort to synthesize the data found in these two documents and present it to our website’s visitors in the most straightforward and understandable way possible.
Vertical surfaces: preparation for facing
Preparation is the first step in any construction project, and facing with ceramic tiles SNiP requires this first. Ultimately, this is among the most labor-intensive kinds of facade finishing, and because tiles are so expensive, any mistakes made in their installation can result in large losses. We believe that this is understood by all.
The following technological functions are associated with work in preparation:
- Visual inspection of the surface to identify defects
- Cutting off bumps and filling in depressions
- Notting (bush hammering) the surface
- Installation of reinforcing mesh
- Installation of beacons and marks
- Alignment of walls by applying mortar
Sequence of preparatory work
It is important to arrange the workspace so that all equipment and supplies are easily accessible. Having a moveable cart that can hold a pail of mortar is incredibly handy.
- To identify surface defects, you will need a two-meter level. By applying it to the wall in different directions, depressions and bumps are identified, marking them with colored chalk. Protrusions, for example, on a brick wall, can be cut off with a chisel or smoothed out with a grinding wheel.
- The depressions are primed with a 10% solution of PVA construction glue, or a penetrating primer composition, and then sealed with a cement-sand mortar. To apply and level it, you need a finishing bucket, a plastering hawk and a float. There is no need to grout the surface.
- For better adhesion of the tiles to the base, notches are made on brick and concrete surfaces. For small volumes of work, a manual bush hammer or a notching hammer is used to make notches.
- If the area of the facade is large, it is better to use a pneumatic or electric tool. After making the notches, dust should be removed from the surface. This is done with a brush or roller soaked in water.
- A wooden surface is prepared for cladding differently. Wooden washers up to 2.5 mm thick are nailed to the walls every 40 cm. First, roll waterproofing is mounted on them, over which a plaster mesh with a small cell is pulled. Plastering will be done on it.
- For better retention of the solution on the mesh, fiber should be added to it – it is commercially available and costs pennies. The thickness of the screed, in this case, should not exceed 2 cm. Thanks to the bars, a small air gap is formed under the mesh, which protects the facing layer when the wood is deformed.
- To ensure uniformity of the screed during plastering, a beacon is installed in the upper part of the wall, at a distance of 30 cm from the cornice, or a dowel-nail is driven in. Its head should protrude outward by the thickness of the future screed.
- Next, the wall is hung: a cord with a plumb line is applied to the upper nail, and, using it as a guide, the same beacon is installed in the lower part of the wall. The same should be done on the opposite side.
- Now, a cord is pulled between the nails in all directions, which will symbolize the surface of the leveling layer. If necessary, the level of the protruding heads is adjusted, achieving the greatest uniformity of the screed. The total thickness of the leveling layer should not exceed 20 mm.
- After hanging, the walls are plastered in two layers (see. Plastering external walls): apply the solution with a hawk, and spread it over the wall in a thin layer using a plastering trowel. You can continue working only after the solution has completely hardened. Then all that remains is to prime the walls, letting them dry – and the surface is ready for cladding.
- Ceramic tile cladding of walls (SNiP 3 * 04 * 01-87), involves leveling the surfaces with a regular cement-sand mortar (1: 3). However, since the creation of this document, alternative options have appeared. For example, these are dry universal building mixtures, one of the options of which you see in the photo. They are sold in bags of 25 and 50 kg, and after mixing with water they are ready for use.
These mixtures contain modifying additives that improve adhesion, increase the plasticity of the solution, and give the plaster layer resistance to temperature changes, in addition to binders and organic components. As a result, the cladding in this instance will be of a higher caliber.
Tiled cladding
Finishing the facade should wait until the blind area is arranged if the house is newly constructed. If not, you must leave a mark on the wall. At this point, a metal corner is installed to support the first row of tiles, and the lower border of the cladding will be beaten off.
- To determine the vertical contour of the cladding, you will have to install beacons again. Slightly above the upper line of the cladding, drive in metal pins, and stretch a wire between them. The gap between the string and the base should approximately correspond to half the thickness of the tile.
- Along the wall, from the middle to the edges, dry lay out the first row of tiles. This will make it possible to accurately calculate their number, as well as calculate the width of the incomplete elements. The layout is made in accordance with the location of each tile in the cladding.
- If a whole number of tiles does not fit in a row, then they need to be shifted so that additional tiles of the same size can be installed from both corners. Otherwise, the cladding will not be symmetrical, and this will affect its aesthetic perception. Installation of tiles on the wall is carried out in the same order.
- Different types of tools are used to cut ceramic tiles. Professionals use a tile cutter, with which you can not only separate a rectangular fragment of a tile, but also make a cut at any given angle.
Buying a hand-held circular saw, also known as a "grinder," which is a household item, is a waste of money for a one-time use. Edge sharpening can be accomplished manually on an abrasive wheel or by using a grinding machine.
Which glue is better
The best material to use as a mounting base is dry tile adhesive, which can be easily diluted to the right consistency with water. You can, of course, make your own glue mixture, but bear in mind that the masonry mortar used for the tiles should have a lower strength than the leveling screed.
Therefore, M50 grade mixture is required for cladding if M150 mortar is used to plaster the wall. Here’s the recipe: One part M300 cement, six parts sand, seven parts lime dough, and roughly thirty percent water are added.
You can’t mix glue with Portland cement! The addition of lime makes the solution more malleable. It can be swapped out for liquid plasticizer, which is also sold, or PVA glue, which is applied at a rate of 250 g per bucket of mortar.
Gluing tiles
Maintaining the horizontality of the rows and the consistency of the seam thickness is crucial when installing tiles. You do not have to be concerned about the tiles "going" down because the first row is supported by a metal corner.
Then, however, a mooring cord must be used:
- It is pulled along the upper edge of the first row of tiles, and the beacon tiles are glued. The mooring cord is the reference point that will not allow the cladding to deviate horizontally. After gluing the second row, the entire procedure is repeated. Vertical seams are controlled using a plumb line.
- The thickness of the joints is ensured by plastic or glass wedges inserted between the tiles. Before gluing, the tiles are not soaked in water, and this is not necessary. Modifying additives in the composition of the tile adhesive do not allow moisture from the solution to be absorbed into the surfaces being glued. Especially since the walls were primed in preparation for cladding.
- The solution is applied to the tile, grooves are made on it with a notched trowel, and pressed against the wall surface, settling with the handle of the tool. Protruding excess is removed, and the surface of the tile stained with the solution is immediately cleaned. After the pasting of flat surfaces is finished, using the plane of the finished cladding as a guide, install corner elements.
A curved jointer is a special tool used to remove excess mortar from seams even though it hasn’t hardened. The image above makes it very evident how this is accomplished. Grout is then poured into the empty space left by the mortar removal.
Adhering to SNiP guidelines guarantees a long-lasting and aesthetically pleasing finish when facing walls with ceramic tiles using the adhesive method. To ensure optimal tile adhesion, this process necessitates meticulous preparation, which includes surface cleaning and leveling. Long-lasting results can be achieved by using precise installation techniques and the appropriate adhesive, which can help avoid common problems like uneven surfaces or tile displacement. Following these guidelines ensures the longevity and safety of the tiled surface in addition to improving the quality of the work.
Requirement | Description |
Tile Selection | Choose tiles that are suitable for indoor or outdoor use based on the specific area. |
Surface Preparation | Ensure the wall surface is clean, dry, and even before applying adhesive. |
Adhesive Application | Apply adhesive evenly using a notched trowel to create grooves for better tile bonding. |
Tile Installation | Press tiles firmly into the adhesive, ensuring they are level and aligned. |
Grouting | Fill gaps between tiles with grout after the adhesive has dried, then clean excess grout from the tile surface. |
Drying Time | Allow sufficient time for the adhesive and grout to fully cure before using the area. |
The adhesive method of applying ceramic tiles to walls is a dependable and well-liked option for numerous building projects. Following SNiP’s guidelines will guarantee a high-quality finish that will endure for many years.
Crucial stages include selecting the appropriate adhesive, properly prepping the surface, and using the suggested tile installation methods. By focusing on these details, common problems like loose tiles and uneven surfaces can be avoided.
All things considered, following the SNiP guidelines guarantees that your tiling job satisfies industry standards, offering both visual appeal and long-term durability. Both practical and aesthetically beautiful outcomes are possible with careful planning and execution.