Putty on wood: how to do it wisely

Putty application on wood may appear simple, but for optimal results, careful planning is needed. Since wood is a natural material, no two putty jobs are alike due to the differences in its grain and moisture content. The correct materials and techniques can make a big difference when filling in gaps, fixing damage, or priming a surface for painting.

Puttying wood aims to produce a smooth, long-lasting finish that improves both the wood’s appearance and longevity, rather than merely hiding flaws. This entails choosing the appropriate putty type, properly preparing the wood, and applying the putty in a way that highlights the natural qualities of the wood.

You can achieve a professional-looking finish that lasts for years by paying attention to a few crucial steps and avoiding common mistakes. This post will discuss intelligent putty wood application techniques to make sure your wood surfaces endure over time in addition to looking fantastic.

Oil-adhesive compositions

Wood putties come in a variety of forms with essentially distinct ingredients. The type of paint that will be used as a finishing layer should be considered when selecting a specific composition.

The easiest option is a putty made of drying oil, which you can make yourself or purchase premade. Under water-and oil-based paints, it is utilized.

Putty under oil paint

We’ll get right into the recipe for anyone who wants to learn how to make oil putty for wood by hand. Two kinds of oils are required: 60g of turpentine and 280g of linseed. Add 30 grams of pumice or perlite powder, 19 grams of casein and gelatin, 12 grams of borax, 17 grams of ammonia, and 300 milliliters of water to this amount.

All of this is combined, heated to a thickening temperature in a water bath, and then cooled. The ready-to-use paste needs to be consumed in a matter of hours.

  • As you can see, the manufacturing process is not complicated at all – the more troublesome part will be finding all the necessary ingredients. This makes no sense at all if you need to putty, for example, only doors or window sills. It is easier to buy a ready-made mixture, especially since it is inexpensive. The price of a five-kilogram package is only 145 rubles, and it is not a fact that you will spend less money looking for the necessary components for its independent production.

  • Another thing is if a large amount of work is ahead – although oil paints, as well as glue paints, are practically not used in home interiors today. Windows are increasingly made of plastic, interior doors are painted with stain or veneered, plank floors have also become a rarity.

If wood is used to cover the walls or finish the ceiling, as in the picture, the surfaces are stained with colored wax, glaze, or oil. The "Extra" class of wood is used for these purposes, and it essentially doesn’t require puttying.

Putties on glue

The use of oil paint or glue whitewash is reserved for commercial spaces, healthcare facilities, and residential building entrances. Putties are made at painting stations, and specialized teams handle finishing and repairs at these locations. Since it only requires two ingredients—pVA glue and chalk—adhesive putty is, incidentally, the easiest to make (see Adhesive putty: technical characteristics of leveling compounds).

  • If you need to plaster wooden walls that have significant irregularities, this composition is used as a finishing option – that is, for applying a cover layer. The basic composition of wood putty also includes fine sawdust. The strength of such a screed is quite high, but it only dries for at least 24 hours.

  • Modern putties sold in stores have an improved composition and, as a rule, are focused on universal use. They are not only suitable for both oil and glue coatings, but can also be applied not only to wooden surfaces, but also to plaster or metal.
  • It is also important that they contain antiseptic additives that prevent mold formation. This is very important for wood, and therefore it is better to use the factory version for indoor work. In order to putty a facade covered, for example, with OSB boards (see. How to putty OSB boards and whether it is necessary to do it), you can make an oil-glue putty paste yourself.
  • To do this, take wood glue and mix it with drying oil at a rate of 1:0.25, after which a filler in the form of sifted chalk is added. Its quantity should be such that a paste-like consistency is obtained, convenient for work. Approximately this: 1 part drying oil, 2.5 parts chalk. In addition, grated laundry soap is added to the paste (20 g / 1 l of drying oil), heated in a water bath until thickened, and then cool.

Additionally, it keeps its functional qualities for a maximum of one hour. Therefore, the mixture will need to be prepared in small portions so that it can be used up quickly. A screed like that takes about a day to dry.

The only way to guarantee excellent coating aesthetics is to sand and remove any dust from the hardened screed before painting over the wood putty.

Choosing the appropriate putty type and following a meticulous procedure are essential when applying putty to wood in order to achieve a smooth, long-lasting finish. This entails preparing the wood surface appropriately, applying putty in thin layers, and letting each coat dry completely before applying another. If you follow these steps, you can fix flaws or prepare the wood for painting while still getting a high-quality finish that improves its longevity and appearance.

Step Description
1. Surface Preparation Clean the wood surface thoroughly, removing dust, dirt, and any loose particles. Sand the surface lightly to ensure better adhesion of the putty.
2. Choosing the Right Putty Select a wood putty that matches the type of wood and intended finish. For outdoor use, make sure the putty is weather-resistant.
3. Application Apply the putty using a putty knife, filling in cracks, holes, and imperfections. Smooth it out evenly to ensure a consistent surface.
4. Drying Time Allow the putty to dry completely as per the manufacturer"s instructions. This ensures it sets properly and is ready for sanding.
5. Sanding Once dried, sand the puttied areas smoothly, blending them with the surrounding wood. This step is crucial for a seamless finish.
6. Final Touches Inspect the surface for any remaining imperfections. If needed, apply another layer of putty, let it dry, and sand again.
7. Sealing and Painting Once the surface is smooth, apply a sealant or primer before painting or staining to protect the wood and enhance the finish.

Putty application on wood can be difficult at first, but with the right technique, it becomes a simple task. Through meticulous surface preparation and thoughtful putty selection, you can guarantee a durable and silky finish that accentuates the inherent beauty of the wood.

You can achieve the best results by applying several thin layers and giving them enough time to dry completely. A smooth surface that is prepared for painting or staining can be achieved by sanding in between coats.

Recall that persistence and focus on details are essential. You can give any wood surface a polished appearance with these easy steps, which will make your woodworking projects stand out.

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Veronica Gerasimova

Interior designer, author of books on the design of residential premises. I will help you make your home not only functional, but also beautiful.

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