Plastering over tiles may seem strange, but it’s a workable way to update a room without having to deal with the hassle of removing outdated tiles. This technique gives your walls a fresh coat of style and texture while also saving time.
To guarantee the plaster adheres well and lasts a long time, the procedure calls for precise planning and execution of the right technique. Comprehending the intricate multi-layer plan is essential to attaining a glossy, long-lasting finish that elevates the look of your space.
This post will guide you through the procedures and factors to take into account when plastering over tiles, so even if you’re doing the work yourself, you can be sure to get a polished finish.
| Layer | Description |
| 1. Surface Preparation | Clean the tile surface thoroughly, removing any grease, dirt, or loose materials to ensure proper adhesion. |
| 2. Primer Application | Apply a suitable primer to create a bonding layer between the tiles and the plaster. |
| 3. Base Layer | Apply the first coat of plaster evenly to level the surface and cover the tile joints. |
| 4. Reinforcement | Embed a mesh or fabric into the wet base layer to prevent cracking and add strength. |
| 5. Finish Layer | Apply the final coat of plaster to achieve a smooth, even surface ready for painting or decoration. |
- Shifting emphasis for the benefit of the business
- Technology
- Suggestion from the editors
- Multilayer scheme – from brick to tile
- Video on the topic
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Shifting emphasis for the benefit of the business
One major benefit of plastering walls under tiles is that it has advanced leveling technology.
Furthermore, you shouldn’t worry too much about whether or not tiles can be laid on plaster.
The straightforward response will be fairly unclear:
- firstly, it’s definitely not worth it on a thin layer of plaster, applied, say, with a roller; Let us note that even though the plaster is always applied with a roller in two, and it is recommended, three layers, the total layer will still be too thin for the tile;
- secondly, without priming, without increasing surface adhesion – it’s also not worth it;
- thirdly, do not apply glue to the primer on the wall – be careful;
- fourthly, without treating the tile itself with a thin layer of glue – it will be very presumptuous.
However, if all four of these requirements are satisfied, go ahead and prepare the tile and plaster as desired.
Technology
The application technology is the same for all types of plaster. Let our front wall be a blank brick wall.
Next, we move forward as follows:
- thoroughly clean the entire surface, putty potholes, remove noticeable protrusions, wait until completely dry;
Very helpful advice! There are two basic SNiP requirements that can help you when leveling. First, in relation to the plane of the two-meter plastering rule, there should be no surface irregularity higher or lower than 2 mm. Second, at a distance of four meters, the slope should not be greater than 8 mm, or 0.2%, between any two points. Additionally, we take note of the fact that the controlled plane’s slope needs to be examined in at least three directions.
- we lay a reinforced mesh on the surface and fasten it with any suitable fastener, the main thing is that it is protected from corrosion;
- then, over the entire surface we place vertical beacon profiles at least 15 mm high, securing them with dowels;
- we plaster the entire wall along the beacons;
Using a reinforcing mesh is a must when plastering walls beneath tiles on your own.
- wait for drying and clean; perfect grinding is not required here, but all irregularities will need to be removed;
- when everything is dry, apply a layer of primer to improve the adhesion of the base layer;
- wait for the primer to dry and start laying the tiles, when you can"t do without glue on both surfaces, both the wall and the tiles, and without methods for leveling the tiles themselves, although this is a different story.
The following figure depicts the overall layout of all required operations:
- A – first, the surface is prepared;
- B – it is primed and beacons are installed; you can use the mesh fasteners as beacons or use this fastener for pulling the beacon cords, but industrially produced profiles are still beyond competition, they are both more convenient and more reliable;
The scheme of work for the plaster beneath the tiles is the same as the treatment surface’s eventual destiny (refer to the text’s description).
- C – plastering a wall; you can use both automatic installations and spraying, anyway, then there will be alignment with a rule, the size of which must necessarily capture two beacons;
- D – profiles serve not only as borders from above, they are a kind of reliable support for the rule, resulting in a perfectly leveled layer;
- E – the distance between the profiles is usually chosen from 80 to 120 mm.
Very helpful advice! In an attempt to address the query of what to use for plastering the walls beneath the tiles, we suggest that you consider gypsum plaster. Its primary benefit over other types is its low consumption, which is about twice that of the others. Therefore, for one square with a standing thickness of 1 cm, you will need regular lime or cement (at least 15 kg), and 8.5 kg of gypsum will suffice.
The grid and its fasteners functioned as beacons in the picture; this is also feasible if the layer thickness is thin.
Suggestion from the editors
Samples of granite or marble, which can be identified by their greater weight, are hardly worth using as tiles. Our recommendation is to utilize a highly effective clinker tile on plaster, with intricate styling techniques that can be applied to any kind of surface.
Multilayer scheme – from brick to tile
When there is plaster underneath, the tile-laying plan is as follows:
- 1 – penetrating primer corresponding to the nature of the rough surface;
- 2 – glue for fixing insulation boards;
- 3 – insulation board, we recommend using mineral wool basalt boards, although the list of quite decent options is very large, including even foam plastic chips;
Plan for installing clinker tiles over a plastered surface (see text description)
- 4 – dowels for fixing the insulation, note that you should not rely only on glue, more reliable fixation is also necessary;
- 5 – mesh-reinforced plaster;
- 6 – primer to increase the adhesive properties of materials;
- 7 – adhesive composition;
- 8 – clinker tiles.
Although this finishing technique greatly streamlines and expedites the entire project, it is not appropriate if tiles are anticipated in the future.
Plastering over existing tiles is a workable way to update a room without taking out the existing tiles. You can achieve a smooth, long-lasting finish that looks professional and lasts for years by following the correct procedures.
The preparation and proper application of several layers are crucial to success. Every layer serves a distinct purpose, such as guaranteeing correct adhesion or producing an impeccable end texture. Any of these steps that are rushed or skipped can produce subpar outcomes.
Recall that a gorgeous, long-lasting surface that can completely change the appearance of any space will result from your patience and attention to detail during the plastering process.
Plastering over tiles requires a particular multi-layer method that preserves the existing tile surface while guaranteeing a robust, long-lasting finish. To achieve a smooth, even finish, this procedure entails properly preparing the surface, applying a bonding agent, and gradually layering the plaster. Plastering is a practical way to update tiled surfaces without having to tear them down, but it adheres well and lasts a long time if the right procedures are understood and followed.
