How to plaster wooden walls with your own hands

Although plastering wooden walls may seem difficult, you can accomplish a smooth, long-lasting finish on your own with a little perseverance and the appropriate technique. Plastering can help preserve the wood and give your walls a tidy, polished appearance, whether you’re remodeling an old house or adding a new layer to a brand-new building.

It’s crucial to properly prepare the wooden surface before you begin. In order to guarantee that the plaster adheres properly and lasts for years, this step is essential. Having the appropriate equipment and supplies on hand is also essential to a successful outcome.

We will take you step-by-step through the entire plastering process in this guide, from preparing the wood to applying the final coat. You’ll be able to plaster your wooden walls with confidence and skill if you follow these easy instructions.

Step Description
Prepare the Surface Clean the wooden wall and fix any loose boards. Apply a base coat of primer.
Attach a Mesh Secure a metal or fiberglass mesh to the wall to help the plaster adhere properly.
Mix the Plaster Prepare the plaster according to the instructions, making sure it"s smooth and lump-free.
Apply the First Coat Spread the plaster evenly over the mesh, working from the bottom up. Let it dry.
Apply the Finish Coat Once the first coat is dry, apply a thinner second coat for a smooth finish.
Final Touches Sand the surface lightly once dry to remove any imperfections.

Requirements for the conditions of work

Finishing can start right away if you intend to use frame-panel technology for plastering a home with a rigid foundation. Regarding log or timber buildings, it is preferable to wait to start construction until the house has settled completely. The shrinkage period varies from 6 to 18 months, depending on the type of soil the building is constructed on. The same holds true for older log homes, whose lower crowns were altered during renovation.

It’s crucial to pay attention to the temperature range. The adherence of the plaster mixture to the wooden base will be negatively impacted by excessively high or low temperatures, which will shorten the coating’s service life. Ten to twenty degrees Celsius is the ideal temperature. If exterior projects are scheduled for the winter, internal work should be completed before turning on the heating. However, it’s crucial to keep in mind that the solution cannot be dried specifically to hasten its hardening; otherwise, it will fracture. It is best to delay facade work until the warm, dry season, which is in late spring or late summer.

Your room can be transformed with a smooth, long-lasting finish when you plaster wooden walls yourself. Without hiring a contractor, you can accomplish professional results with the right tools and a few simple steps. Even if you’ve never plastered before, this guide will walk you through the steps and make it simple to understand and apply.

Preparatory work before plastering

The following supplies and tools must be ready before plastering a wooden wall:

  • Containers for measuring the mixture and preparing it, a concrete mixer for large volumes, a drill with a mixer attachment for small ones.
  • Hammer, nails and wooden slats – for stuffing the shingles.
  • Spatulas, trowel or float – for application.
  • Sandpaper or sanding machine – for rubbing the coating.

Next, the surface needs to be cleaned. Any dirt, grease stains, paint residue, etc., must be removed. In order to prevent rust beneath the plaster coating, any fasteners that are present in the wall should also be removed.

If the surface is perfectly level, you will need to create indentations and cuts in the wood to make the surface rougher before applying plaster. As a result, you can greatly improve wood’s adherence to plaster solutions. However, stuffing the shingles—a type of wooden lathing—would be the best course of action. Installing shingles is also necessary when plastering a wooden house from the outside because the combination of porous mortar and wooden slats increases the degree of thermal insulation.

Installing the shingles

Installing this structure involves angling it 45 degrees toward the floor. There should only be a 5 cm gap between each piece of shingles. There are two layers that are installed and they cross over. Consequently, 5 cm-wide cells ought to start forming on the wall. A hammer and nails are used to fasten each slat. It is not possible to skip because the slats will pull away from the wall and rip the layer of plaster.

Wetting the end of the slat with water is advised before fastening it to the surface. When hammering in nails, this small trick will keep the slats from splitting. In addition, nails must be hammered in at the intersections between the slats in addition to the edges.

Vital! The edges of the slats should not touch; instead, there should be a 2 mm expansion joint between them. If not, the coating may crack once it dries.

Two methods exist for installing shingles. Each slat can be nailed to the wall individually, or the lathing can be assembled and nailed to the surface separately.

Nailing the laths to the walls and then to the ceiling is the first step in plastering wooden walls and ceilings. Use a specific reinforcing mesh that is fastened to the corners in place of plaster laths when connecting wood with another material, such as when one partition is made of brick and the other of wood.

Before nailing the lathing, a waterproofing layer must be installed on all wooden surfaces in bathrooms, kitchens, and toilets.

Preparing the solution

Plastering wooden surfaces can be done with any kind of solution because the wood’s fibrous structure guarantees the plaster’s dependable adhesion. As a result, there are various ways to prepare the mixture:

  1. Cement-sand plaster. This is a classic version of the finishing material. Most often, the following ratio of sand and cement is used: 1:3, but the proportion of filler can increase or decrease. First, mix the dry ingredients, then add water. Before using the plaster, it needs to be stirred several times and left to stand for 10-15 minutes.
  2. Cement-lime mortar can also be used for plastering wooden surfaces. First, mix the cement with sand in the classic proportions of 1:3, then add 1 part lime milk to the mixture. River or quarry sand can be used, but its fraction should not exceed 1 mm.
  3. A mortar based on lime and gypsum is often used for plastering shingles. The proportions are as follows: 1 part lime, 1 part gypsum, 3 parts sand. First, mix the lime with sand, then add water. Such a solution is only suitable for finishing walls from the inside. It has another feature – a quick setting time, so the material should be prepared in small portions so that it does not harden in the container.

Vital! In order to prepare lime solutions for plastering, they must first be slaked. If you apply a composition containing quicklime, the wall coating will crack within a few days due to the significant amount of gases released during this process.

Applying plaster

Inside the home, plastering wooden walls involves the following steps:

  1. Splashing. This is the first layer of material that is applied to ensure the most dense contact between the mixture and the surface. It will require the same solution as for the main operations, but more liquid. You can also add a small amount of PVA glue to it. The solution is collected on a spatula, trowel or trowel and simply thrown onto the surface. You can also use a broom to plaster the walls. It is lowered into a bucket of solution, then brought to the wall and hit with a stick closer to the handle. The surface will be sprayed with the mixture, which is why the first layer is called. After this, you need to wait a while until the solution sets (the manufacturer specifies the time on the packaging). If the solution was prepared independently, then gypsum mixtures dry in 20 minutes, cement and lime in 2-3 hours. Some craftsmen apply a primer, but this step is optional.
  2. Soil. This is the main layer on which the strength, thermal insulation and other indicators of the plaster depend. Without installing a reinforcing mesh, the maximum layer thickness is 3 cm, with installation – you can even stretch it to 8, but this is highly not recommended. Plastering of walls is carried out with a thicker solution than for the first layer. It is collected on a wide spatula and transferred to the surface in a large portion, after which it is leveled with a trowel or small spatulas. Plastered surfaces are left to dry.
  3. Cover. This is the last layer of material, which must be perfectly smooth. Its thickness is no more than 3 mm. Some craftsmen advise straining the composition through a fine sieve before processing surfaces for plastering. The material is applied in the same way as in the case of the previous layer, only it is leveled more carefully.
  4. Grouting surfaces. This operation should be carried out when the material has dried well on the wall, but before it has gained strength. Otherwise it will be very difficult to work with. So, 4-5 days after the end of the work, you need to treat the walls with sandpaper, a grinder or a grater. This completes the plastering of the wooden house inside. You can leave everything as is or finish the coating with paint or wallpaper.

While plastering wooden walls by hand can initially seem difficult, it is a manageable task with the right tools and a little perseverance. A smooth and long-lasting finish that improves the appearance of your house can be achieved by carefully following the instructions and prepping the surface.

It’s crucial to take your time throughout the procedure, particularly when layering the plaster. In the long run, rushing the work can result in cracked or uneven surfaces. It is best to wait until each layer is completely dry before applying the next.

In addition to saving money, doing the work yourself gives you the satisfaction of making improvements to your house yourself. Your wooden walls can be exquisitely plastered, giving your room a modern and elegant look, with careful attention to detail.

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Veronica Gerasimova

Interior designer, author of books on the design of residential premises. I will help you make your home not only functional, but also beautiful.

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