One crucial decision that is frequently contested in attic finishing is whether or not to putty drywall before hanging wallpaper. Although this step may seem unnecessary, it can have a significant impact on how your project turns out in the end.
While mudding and drywall taping are standard procedures, one must consider whether or not puttying up seams and flaws in wallpaper is worthwhile. A smooth, seamless surface that enhances the adhesion and polish of your wallpaper can be achieved by properly finishing drywall.
This post will discuss the rationale behind covering wallpaper with drywall and whether going the extra mile to do so will improve the long-term stability and aesthetics of your attic space. Comprehending these particulars can aid you in attaining a polished outcome that endures over time.
Topic | Finishing attic spaces: part 3 – is it necessary to putty drywall under the wallpaper |
Purpose | To determine if drywall needs to be puttied before applying wallpaper in attic spaces |
Drywall Preparation | Drywall should be smooth and free of imperfections for a good wallpaper finish |
Puttying Benefits | Helps to fill gaps, seams, and imperfections, providing a smoother surface for wallpaper |
When to Skip Puttying | If drywall is already smooth and well-finished, additional puttying may not be necessary |
Alternative Options | Using primer or joint compound to address minor imperfections before wallpapering |
Preparatory stage of work
We proceed with the interior finishing in the previously known attic. We will remind everyone in case they have forgotten or haven’t read the earlier articles that we completely insulated this room before sheathing it with drywall and using an unplaned board frame for this purpose.
Why puttying is required
However, we won’t ignore the primary query and offer a few explanations for why it’s not a good idea to apply wallpaper adhesive directly to drywall:
- The main problem that arises with this method of finishing is the subsequent dismantling of the wallpaper. If you use good glue (some add PVA to the mixture), then when you remove the canvas, the cardboard base of the drywall sheets is easily removed with it.
- If someone does not know, then know that it is the cardboard that binds the gypsum core of the sheet and prevents it from crumbling. Having damaged this layer, you will greatly reduce the strength of the entire structure – in addition, unevenness will form in places of tears, which will make re-gluing difficult.
- In rooms with high humidity and a high probability of fire, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant drywall is used, which has a green and pink color – respectively (see. photo below).
Now visualize the following image:
- You have leveled (puttied) the joints of the drywall sheets, and covered the heads of the screws on which it is screwed. Accordingly, after this, the integrity of the surface paint is violated – in some places it will be green, and in some places – white from the putty.
- Now you glue the wallpaper, which (with the exception of particularly dense options) begins to shine through, and put all this color madness on display. Not only that the surface will be rushed, but also the color of the wallpaper itself will significantly shift towards a green or pink shade.
- The following is an ink marking that is affixed on the sheets of drywall. It is located strictly in the center in the longitudinal direction of the sheet. It is affixed for the convenience of installation so that the finisher does not have to note the position of the central profile of the frame.
- As you understand, if your wallpaper has a thin base, then ink will also become visible through them.
Counseling! If you’re still not convinced that puttying is necessary, make sure the surface is at least one shade, or at least one layer thick, to reduce the likelihood of the wallpaper’s color changing.
The priming of the walls
We will begin with initial surface preparation and proceed in accordance with the guidelines for applying wallpaper to finished drywall walls.
The drywall surface invariably accumulates dust and gypsum during installation, either from the builder’s hands or from the dust that falls on it during cutting. Although dirt is nearly impossible to remove with a brush, it must be done in order to maintain high adhesion—the putty’s ability to stick to the surface—and avoid it from peeling off later.
Deep penetration primers are used for these objectives:
- They have the property of penetrating into the structure of the porous material and strengthening it.
- Primers bind dust particles together, and also reduce the absorption of moisture by the treated surface, which is no less important.
- If you leave the drywall unprimed, then when putty is applied to it, it will quickly draw water out of it, which is why the putty will begin to roll into lumps, preventing the applied layer from being leveled.
Depending on the absorbency of the wall to be treated, one or two coats of primer should be applied.
Advice: Make sure to repeat the treatment if the primer is fully absorbed after three minutes and the surface is dry.
Either a roller or a big brush is used to prime the walls, but the first method is far more practical when covering large, flat surfaces.
You need to wait until the primer layer dries completely after the process is finished. Since every composition is unique in both its technical and aesthetic qualities, you can determine the precise drying time by examining the composition label annotation.
For the described work, even low-cost products are appropriate because the drywall’s structure is robust and doesn’t need to be strengthened. If the mixture is to be finished in damp, poorly ventilated spaces, it only needs to bear the marking "deep penetration" and contain antiseptic additives.
Sealing of seams and screws
You can start to seal the joints between the drywall sheets once the walls are totally dry. Although the procedure is fairly straightforward, any craftsman who performs the work by hand must be aware of its unique nuances, just like with any other kind of labor.
You’ll need the following supplies and equipment for the job:
- Special putty for plasterboard joints (more below);
- Serpyanka or paper reinforcing tape;
- Perforated plastic corner (if there are internal corners in the room);
- A bucket for mixing the mixture;
- Two spatulas – one small, the second wider than the groove of the joint of the sheets (15 cm and above).
There are two kinds of single-plane joints between sheets. The edges of the first (factory-produced) one are thinner to facilitate alignment. In other words, there is a several millimeter-deep surface depression at the joint where the putty and reinforcing tape can be easily hidden, creating a perfectly flat plane.
There are no depressions in the second (also end, or cut). The problem is that there are no bevels on the drywall’s short edges, and you also do not get them when you cut the sheet. It is therefore impossible to prevent unevenness when sealing such seams. First things first, though.
Apart from the seam types mentioned above, you can also observe the installation process of self-adhesive construction mesh (serpyanka) in the above photo. It is imperative to safeguard the joint against potential deformations resulting from the house’s shrinkage and other factors that may mechanically impact the plasterboard frame.
A more costly paper reinforcing tape can be used in place of the serpyanka to more effectively prevent joint cracks. However, since this is not a crucial factor for gluing wallpaper, we opted for a less expensive material.
Next, we carry out the subsequent actions:
- Unroll the serpyanka along the entire length of the seam and smooth it well with your palm or a spatula. Make sure that there are no unsealed areas or bumps, as this will greatly complicate the process of sealing the seam.
- Press the edge of the tape firmly with a spatula and pull to tear the tape along it. You can do this with a utility knife. Also inspect the joint and cut off all the fibers that have separated from the serpyanka.
- In this manner, go through all the joints – including the inner corners of the room. Exceptions are the outer corners, in which we will install a special perforated corner.
- The corner is placed on the putty, and coated on both sides until completely leveled. This must be done in several stages, with intermediate drying of the layers.
The mixture is then diluted. Use an elastomeric putty with a high strength for the purposes being considered.
These days, "Knauf Fugenfuller" putty is the most widely used material. It is reasonably priced, with a 25 kg bag probably costing no more than 500 rubles, and it is good in terms of quality and dependability. We also employed this choice.
We also want to draw your attention to the "Knauf Uniflot" mixture, which is significantly more expensive than the material mentioned above but has a much stronger structure and will almost certainly prevent cracks in your work.
Counseling! When priming drywall for painting, we advise getting this mixture.
This kind of putty should only be combined by hand or on the lowest speed setting of an electric mixer. If you use a machine to mix the mixture, it will solidify right away, leaving you with little time to utilize it. You can work with the same "Fugen" for up to 30 minutes if you dilute it properly.
You should avoid diluting a lot of putty at once if you have never used a spatula before. You’ll only need a quarter of a ten-liter bucket to start. Additionally, you can safely increase the mixture’s amount once you get the hang of it.
Sealing factory seams is the easiest. To accomplish this, begin applying putty to the joint in transverse motions with respect to the seam’s direction. Step back a meter or so, smooth out the excess putty with a single or double motion, and repeat.
If you notice that the putty is not applied evenly, don’t worry; this is only the first layer, and our job is to correct the serpyanka and establish a primer base. You will need to go over the seam once more to ensure that it is perfectly smooth after the first layer dries.
For this task, use a spatula with a strong blade that won’t bend easily under pressure. When pressed, an overly flexible spatula will absorb a lot of putty, leaving a depression in the seam.
Counseling! After the seam has been leveled, use a putty knife to examine how evenly the covering was applied.
The idea behind leveling the end seam is the same, with the exception that here there is a bump formed by the putty layers joining with the serpyanka. Avoid adding too many layers and try to bring this place out as smoothly as you can. If not, the protrusion will eventually be seen and will draw your attention to it all the time.
In addition to sealing the seams, we also cover the screw heads, the remnants of which must be concealed. Using a small spatula, apply a small amount of putty to the screw and smooth the mixture in various directions.
Make an effort to remove any remaining putty drips from these areas; if there are, you will need to scrape them off before adding the top layer.
Counseling! Applying a general layer of putty to the surface won’t be enough to conceal the screws because there will always be depressions in these areas, requiring multiple coats of putty application. Performing this procedure during the preparatory work stage is far more accurate.
This self-tapping screw needs to be swung if, upon closing the hat, you feel the spatula clinging to it with its blade. You’ll need an ordinary screwdriver, which you can conveniently attach to the back of the spatula handle.
Additionally, you can purchase a ready-made tool with a similar design, as seen above, from home goods stores.
Whether or not to putty drywall before applying wallpaper can have a significant impact on the finished look of attic spaces. Although installing drywall may seem like an extra step, it helps create an even, smooth surface that improves the appearance of the wallpaper and guarantees proper adhesion. If this step is skipped, the finish may be less polished and have noticeable flaws.
It’s critical to address the drywall’s surface quality when finishing attic spaces, particularly if you intend to hang wallpaper. Even though drywall has a tendency to be fairly smooth, putting itty might still be required to get an impeccable finish. It helps to cover up any small flaws and guarantees a smooth surface on which the wallpaper will stick, so any lumps or unevenness are hidden.
Applying a layer of joint compound or spackle may seem like an extra step, but it makes a big difference in how your walls look in the end. Ignoring this step could result in noticeable flaws and wallpaper that isn’t quite perfect. It will look polished and professional if you take a little longer to prepare.
In summary, spending a little time puttying your drywall before hanging wallpaper in your attic room can have a significant impact on the finished product. It guarantees that your wallpaper will apply smoothly and adhere well, improving the overall quality of your finished room.