DIY installation of metal siding: step-by-step instructions with photos and videos

Although installing metal siding yourself may seem like a difficult undertaking, any motivated do-it-yourselfer can complete the project with the correct advice and supplies. Your home or building will look sleeker and more modern with metal siding in addition to being low-maintenance and long-lasting. Metal siding is a fantastic option if you want to update the look of the outside of your house or give a new building some protection.

This post will guide you through every step of the procedure, making sure you have all the knowledge required to produce results that look professional. Every step is covered in detail, from surface preparation to final panel securing, with photos and videos to help you visualize each one.

You can successfully install metal siding that will not only look amazing but also last for a long time if you pay close attention to detail and have a little patience. Let’s get started and use this elegant and long-lasting material to change the look of your exterior.

Basic recommendations for working with metal siding

When installing cladding, several considerations must be made:

  1. It is necessary to accurately calculate the amount of material for cladding the building. For this, measurements are taken of all sections of the facade that will be subject to finishing. A work scheme is drawn up, it is especially relevant when creating complex compositions that involve a combination of several colors on one wall. You can confirm the resulting calculations by using the help of consultants at points of sale.
  2. The number of additional elements and related materials is calculated separately. The technology assumes that components from the same manufacturer should be used for installation, you can deviate from this rule only in extreme cases.
  3. The most preferable solution is to cut steel siding to order according to a drawn up scheme, this will allow you to get ready-made parts of the required dimensions. If this is difficult, then the cutting is carried out with an electric jigsaw with a suitable attachment or a saber saw. It is not recommended to use a grinder or similar tools operating at high speeds, since they lead to overheating of the cut area, which causes corrosion.
  4. All parts must be mounted taking into account the thermal gap. Iron panels do not expand as much as PVC products, but under the influence of high temperatures, too tightly fixed fragments are deformed. The optimal gap between the hole and the head of the screw screwed in the center is 1 mm. Fixing is carried out in the direction from the middle to the edges of the panel.
  5. Before purchasing the material, you should read the instructions placed by the manufacturer on the label or separately. It should contain not only the characteristics of the product, but also the order of work, as well as recommendations regarding additional elements. The products must have all the necessary certificates.
  6. After purchase, the panels are stored on a flat surface in a horizontal position in a place protected from precipitation.

By heeding the advice, more issues can be prevented.

Necessary materials and tools

The following tools are required for installing metal siding:

  • The selected type of panels and accessories. Starter and corner profiles, strips and trims for window cladding, ebb, soffit, J-profile and chamfer, finishing elements and moldings.
  • Frame parts. U-shaped hangers and metal profile or wooden beam (depending on the selected type).
  • Insulation, material for vapor barrier and waterproofing (wind protection).
  • Mold and mildew protection products and fire retardants. May be required to prepare the base.
  • Drill and hammer drill. For creating holes in metal and walls.
  • Trimming tool. Hand scissors or electric jigsaw.
  • Punch. Makes mounting holes.
  • Screwdriver or hammer. Depending on the chosen fixation method.
  • Measuring and leveling devices. Level, tape measure, plumb line.

A metal siding subsystem can be utilized for optimal outcomes. It comes with several components, including a Z-profile for horizontal cladding, an L-shaped strip, and a bracket made especially for fastening panels.

Working technology for such a subsystem consists of wall-mounted brackets that support the L-profile. Z-bars are mounted on top for horizontal installation; the design works well for vertical installation.

Preparatory work

Several preparatory tasks must be completed before the main covering is installed:

  1. All unnecessary things are removed from the base. The old decorative finish can be left if it does not interfere with further work and will not lead to problems in the future.
  2. Surface condition is assessed. Seams and cracks are unstitched, treated with primer and sealed. If the damage is more than 10–15 cm, then additional reinforcement is performed.
  3. The base is prepared separately. The foundation must not have significant defects.
  4. The surface is treated to prevent the appearance of microorganisms. The wooden facade is impregnated with fire retardants.
  5. The coating is thoroughly dried.
  6. If required, a vapor barrier is attached (most important when working with wooden houses). The peculiarity of this material is that the film is placed with the rough side facing the wall. The joining is done overlapping, everything is glued with mounting tape. Fixation is carried out with staples directly to the covering or using slats. Fastening areas are sealed.

The materials and tools that are lacking are prepared concurrently.

Erection of the lathing

Remember that building a frame out of standard components is the easiest and most economical way to properly sheathe a house with metal siding.

Wooden

The work has to be done very carefully because securely fastened lathing ensures the dependability and longevity of the coating. Step-by-step action plan algorithm:

  1. For installing the frame, a beam with a section of 50 * 40 or 50 * 50 is used. The material is pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
  2. The surface is marked. The main posts should be placed perpendicular to the cladding panels. Lines are drawn with a step of 50-60 cm.
  3. After drying, the beam is drilled for self-tapping screws. The step of the fastening holes is from 20 to 40 cm. These fixing points are transferred to the previously marked lines. According to the marks, holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill.
  4. The racks are set up and pre-fixed, after which the timber is leveled and the substrates are placed under it. Final fixation in progress.
  5. For greater convenience, corner posts can be set using a plumb line and level. A cord is stretched between them, allowing you to quickly align the remaining elements.

Polyurethane foam is used to carefully fill the spaces that remain between the wall and the wood. By doing this, "cold bridges" won’t show up once the heat-insulating material is laid.

Metal

The construction of do-it-yourself lathing from metal profiles follows this plan:

  1. Marking is being carried out. Installation lines are drawn in increments of 50–60 cm. When working with a base – 35–50 cm.
  2. The hanging frame elements are being fastened. To do this, holes are drilled at a distance of 35–45 cm according to the markings, hangers are attached to self-tapping screws and dowels and bent to the desired shape.
  3. The corner segments are positioned first and carefully aligned along the plane. A cord is stretched between them to align the remaining racks.

Accuracy is needed when assembling the frame; each component must be precisely positioned in relation to the level and form a single plane.

Note: Doors and windows are lined independently, no matter how the lathing is constructed. A closed system connected to the main fragments is formed by positioning the racks around their perimeter.

Hydro- and thermal insulation of walls

It is frequently necessary to use extra insulation when sheathing a home with metal siding. While there are many materials that work well for this, mineral wool or penoplex—an upgraded form of foam—are the most readily available and ideal for self-laying.

The following procedures are used for waterproofing and thermal insulation:

  1. When choosing a wooden frame, mineral wool is placed in the resulting cells. It is laid tightly, without gaps. Work is carried out in protective equipment for the respiratory tract and mucous membranes.
  2. The metal frame is excellent for laying penoplex. For this, even during the installation of the lathing, the slabs are pricked onto the installed and bent hangers. Dowels with a large head are used for additional fastening. The material is placed without matching the joints of adjacent rows, the corners are laid with an overlap. Additional sealing is carried out.
  3. A film is stretched over the entire surface to protect against moisture penetration. The joints are combined with a large supply of material.

If installing a facade with a ventilation gap, a Z-profile or similar element is mounted on a metal frame, and a strip of the required thickness is mounted on a wooden frame strictly along the beam.

If you do the proper steps, installing metal siding yourself can be a simple and satisfying project. We’ll walk you through every step of the procedure in this guide, from setting up your tools to securing the final panel, all with clear instructions and useful illustrations. Regardless of your experience level with do-it-yourself projects or lack thereof, this guide will provide you the confidence to make improvements to the outside of your house.

Installation of panels

  • A drip is installed. It is necessary if there are protruding sections of the base.
  • A starting profile is laid. If the part is located together with the drain, then it is aligned and fixed directly above the drip.

  • When fixing from below, the initial fragment must be installed according to a certain pattern:
  • A small distance is left from the ground or blind area. Mark the initial line, from which you step back 40 mm upwards (for standard strips).
  • Corner elements are attached. The starting part should be at a distance of 5–10 mm from them. If it is intended to be mounted flush, then internal sections are cut out in the corner segments.
  • Screws are screwed into the center of the existing holes. The profile is carefully checked for level.
  • The joining of fragments is carried out with a gap of 6–10 mm.

  • External and internal angles are set. Due to the fact that such parts are not always available, J-profile can be used as an alternative. You can trim the corners with simple decorative trims.

  • If the size of the siding is not enough or decoration is being done, connecting strips (H-profile) are used.

  • The edges of the panel are inserted around the corner or corner and the connecting profile and lowered until they meet the starting element. The part is fixed through the existing holes. The entire area is sheathed in a similar way. Each connecting node is checked for level.
  • At the final stage, a finishing strip or J-profile is installed on top, depending on the situation. If the panel is to be trimmed, then notches are made along its edge that go into the installed profile and ensure the reliability of the fastener.

A soffit is used if sheathing the roof overhangs is required.

You should know this! When finishing a house with a metal L-beam, the parts are placed in the opposite order because the installation is done from top to bottom.

Step Description
1. Prepare the wall Clean the wall surface, remove any old cladding, and fix any damage.
2. Install the starter strip Attach the starter strip at the bottom of the wall to support the first row of siding.
3. Fix the corner profiles Mount corner profiles at each corner of the building to provide a neat finish.
4. Attach the first siding panel Lock the first siding panel into the starter strip and secure it with nails or screws.
5. Continue with the next panels Overlap each panel with the previous one and secure it in place.
6. Cut panels for windows and doors Trim siding panels to fit around windows and doors, ensuring a snug fit.
7. Install the final row Trim the top row of siding if necessary and secure it under the top trim.
8. Check and finish Inspect the siding for any gaps or loose panels and make final adjustments.

Doing your own metal siding installation is a satisfying project that can significantly improve the look and longevity of your house. You don’t need specialized knowledge or equipment to accomplish professional results if you follow these step-by-step instructions. The secret is to measure carefully, take your time, and make sure every panel is fastened securely.

As you progress through every phase, from surface preparation to finishing touches, you’ll feel more confident in your capacity to take on home renovation projects. Never be afraid to consult the images and videos again for visual assistance; they can be quite helpful in removing any doubts.

After installing siding, your house will have a more modern appearance and improved weather resistance. Revel in the accomplishment of a job well done and the knowledge that you have personally enhanced the beauty and value of your property.

Video on the topic

INSTALLATION OF METAL SIDING. FRAME HOUSE. I BUILD ALONE. #29

Instructions for installing siding. Do-it-yourself siding installation

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation. How to do it right👍 @Master_do_vsex_del

Step-by-step installation of metal siding. How to properly install metal siding? Instructions

Instructions for installing metal siding / Vertical installation of Quadro Brus Grand Line siding

What interior style do you like the most?
Share to friends
Veronica Gerasimova

Interior designer, author of books on the design of residential premises. I will help you make your home not only functional, but also beautiful.

Rate author
Vash-Variant.com
Add a comment