Cladding balconies with clapboard: selection of material and stages of work with photos and videos

Clapboard is a great way to improve the durability and appearance of your balcony. Clapboard is a flexible material that can be used to add a touch of rustic charm or shield your balcony from the weather. This post will explain how to select the appropriate material for your clapboard project and show you how to accomplish a polished finish.

We’ll start by going over the different kinds of clapboard materials that are out there, emphasizing their advantages and appropriateness for various climates and architectural styles. Knowing your options—from conventional wood to contemporary composites—will help you make an informed choice.

After that, we’ll walk you through the preparation, installation, and finishing steps of cladding your balcony. You’ll be able to follow along with ease and take on the project with confidence thanks to the photos and videos. Together, we will explore the world of clapboard cladding and turn your balcony into a chic and useful area!

Selection of lining

DIY The first step in clapboard balcony cladding is material acquisition. The type of wood is the first thing you should consider. Needles is the least expensive kind. Because the resins inside it are both preservatives and antiseptics, it has a long service life. However, the material can secrete resin in the heat, and even the smallest mechanical force will cause dents in it.

Costlier varieties of wood, like cedar and larch, are stronger and have a denser structure. They are also exquisitely colored and textured. Such wood needs to be impregnated with specific compounds because it essentially lacks resins.

Oak is the priciest material, but it is also the highest quality. Alder, linden, and aspen are excellent mid-range cable-stayed woods.

Additionally, basic and so-called Euro lining are available on the market. Given that it has ventilation, which increases the material’s longevity, the latter choice is thought to be better. Furthermore, this material comes in over 20 different profile types. The most well-liked ones are:

  • American;
  • blockhouse;
  • softline;
  • standard;
  • landhouse.

Note: Although each customer can order a batch with exact specifications, doing so will cause the manufacturer to add manufacturing time and reconfigure equipment, which will result in a significant increase in material costs.

There are various grades of lining depending on whether there are any color spots, knots, or cracks. Any grade can be used for do-it-yourself balcony paneling, although some people may not like knots. "Extra" and "A" are the highest classes, while "C" is the lowest.

Materials with a specific humidity level are necessary for the interior finishing of a balcony with lining. Overly dry wood may split when being installed. Wet wood that has been installed will shrink and distort. 7–10% humidity is ideal, assuming the wood was dried in a chamber during processing.

The dimensions of the material are the final item you should consider. It should have a thickness of 12 to 16 mm and a width of 90 to 120 mm. The length is determined by the room’s measurements.

Choosing insulation

The next step is to choose an appropriate thermal insulation material. The following options are available on the modern construction market and can be utilized on the balcony:

  1. Polystyrene foam. The main advantages are low cost and ease of installation. Disadvantages: flammability, formation of cold bridges at the joints of the slabs, release of harmful substances during combustion. But the most important thing is vapor impermeability. Because of this, moisture can accumulate under the lining, which will lead to a decrease in the service life of the product. Therefore, polystyrene foam can be used as a heat-insulating material in the case of covering the balcony with lining only if the walls are ventilated.
  2. Mineral wool. This insulation is most often used for interior finishing of balconies with lining. Despite the need to arrange a waterproofing barrier, the total cost of materials remains average. As practice shows, mineral wool has the best price-quality ratio.
  3. Extruded polystyrene foam. It is both an insulator and a sound insulator. In addition, it has low thermal conductivity, therefore it provides comfortable conditions in the room. Disadvantages: high cost and vapor impermeability.
  4. Foam blocks. Despite high thermal insulation performance and ease of installation, these products are practically not used for insulating balconies, as they take up a lot of space.
  5. Foam glass. The material has average thermal conductivity and average cost. The only thing that can attract a buyer is 100% naturalness. Insulation of a balcony with such material is carried out with preliminary installation of a vapor barrier.

It is important to discuss the vapor and waterproofing for insulation separately. In every way, foil-clad polyethylene foam dominates the market.

Choosing an antiseptic for processing wooden lining

Different impregnations must be applied to the balcony lining. Since the material is natural, it is possible for insects to live there and for mold and fungus to grow on the surface. Use the following supplies to process the battens and balcony lining:

  1. Senezh Aquadecor. This antiseptic, in addition to its main purpose, tints wood in one of 16 shades.
  2. Aquatex. Is a starting coating that requires varnish.
  3. Tikkurila Valti. Used as a primer for paint.
  4. Usadba "U-409". After drying, it forms a polymer film that protects the wood from contamination.

It is best to treat the material with tinting antiseptics prior to installing it on the balcony, as experience has shown. This impregnation in one layer will shield the wood from moisture, UV light, microorganisms, and insects, among other things. It will be necessary to tint the wood, slightly lightening it, if the loggia or balcony faces the sun. The surfaces are varnished to give them a glossy appearance.

Preparatory stage

Prior to covering the balcony with Euro lining, the following materials must be ready:

  • Insulation, polyurethane foam, masking tape.
  • Wooden beam, vapor barrier, lining.
  • Fasteners for insulation, lathing and lining.
  • Accessories (plugs and corners).
  • Impregnation or varnish, primer.

The following instruments are also needed for lining finishing:

  • Perforator, electric drill, screwdriver.
  • Hammer, hatchet, pliers, side cutters, hacksaw or jigsaw.
  • Building level, square, brush or roller.
  • Pencil or marker, tape measure and ruler.

The initial stage of sheathing a balcony with Euro lining is surface preparation, which entails the subsequent actions:

  1. Removing the old coating and cleaning the surfaces from dirt and grease stains.
  2. Identifying weak fragments and removing them with a hammer.
  3. Sealing the resulting irregularities with cement-sand mortar.
  4. Treating the walls and ceiling with antiseptic primer.

The thesis for an article on "Cladding balconies with clapboard: selection of material and stages of work with photos and videos" might be something like this: Adding clapboard to your balcony can improve its durability and appearance. This guide will help you select the appropriate clapboard material and will walk you through the installation process step-by-step, with photos and videos to help you understand and keep the process manageable.

Installing the lining on the lathing

The most popular installation option is this one. You are left with a sturdy, long-lasting structure that is able to bear any mechanical stresses. Furthermore, the clapboard can conceal heating mains, ventilation boxes, electrical wiring, and other components. It will take a little longer to finish the balcony with clapboard by hand using this method than it would for glue installation.

Installation of the lathing and insulation

Marking the surface that needs to be sheathed is the first step.

Note that the clapboard can be attached either vertically or horizontally. The latter is a better option because of the balcony’s length and narrowness.

Initially, 10 cm must separate the vertical lines from the corners and apertures. After using a building level to confirm that the marking is accurate, draw horizontal lines 40 centimeters from the floor along the walls’ perimeter. Next, keep drawing horizontal lines, but this time, take a 60-cm step.

Using a building level, you must double-check the marking at the conclusion. Now that the frame is installed, you can begin:

  • First, use a hacksaw or jigsaw to cut the slats to the required length.
  • Then place the wooden product against the line, step back 5 cm from the edge and drill the first hole with a hammer drill so that its depth in the wall is no more than 5 cm.
  • Next, drill holes along the entire length of the beam with a step of no more than 80 cm.
  • All products need to be processed in this way, after which plastic dowels should be installed in the holes in the wall.
  • Now you should put the lathing aside for a while and install the waterproofing material on liquid nails. Give the glue time to set (the period is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging).
  • Then the lathing is simply installed on the screws, which are screwed into the previously prepared holes. The installation is also checked with a building level. It is better not to screw in the fasteners completely right away, but after checking with a level, slightly recess the caps into the material.

This phase concludes with the installation of the insulation. If rolled materials are being discussed, they need to be laid out prior to starting the frame installation process. Slabs of thermal insulation material are just placed into the crevices created when the sheathing was installed. At this point, heating radiators are installed and all utilities are set up.

Cladding technology

The following actions are involved in finishing a balcony with eurolining:

  1. The slats are cut to length and thoroughly treated with antiseptic compounds.
  2. Using a hacksaw, cut off the tenon of one plank and apply it to the corner with the groove in the direction opposite to it. The vertical is checked with a level.
  3. Then you need to secure the element to the frame using nails or clamps. In the first case, the hardware is simply driven in at an angle. In the second, the process is a little more complicated: the plank is fixed with two nails from above and below, driving them in not completely. A clamp is mounted in the panel groove and fixed with screws. At the end, the nails are simply removed.
  4. The next product is installed in the same way, but inserting the tenon into the groove of the previous one.
  5. The last plank may have to be trimmed. This should be done in such a way as to leave the tenon intact.
  6. At the end, the surface is treated with varnish, plugs, ceiling and floor skirting boards are installed.

It is exactly the same process to install the lining on the ceiling. If heavy products were purchased, installing a metal frame rather than a wooden one might be necessary.

Video: a creative method for hanging lining on the ceiling

Installing lining on glue

This method can only be used to finish the walls and ceiling if the surfaces are flawlessly level and free of flaws. Furthermore, it is not a good idea to install wooden lining on glue because the wood will become saturated with moisture from the composition. Using materials that dry quickly can actually damage the wood.

Thus, you will need plastic lining and even walls for glue installation. Applying an antiseptic to the surface to be finished is sufficient; once it dries, work can start. The process for installation is the same as for lathing. The panel is pressed to the surface after the back is coated with glue. The remaining composition is immediately removed, and the tongue-and-groove method and glue are used to install the remaining planks. Plugs and corners are added at the very end.

Material Selection Choose clapboard made from durable wood or composite materials that can withstand outdoor conditions. Consider factors like weather resistance and maintenance needs.
Preparation Measure the balcony area accurately and prepare the surface by cleaning and repairing any damage. Ensure the area is dry and free from mold.
Installation Start from the bottom and work your way up, securing each piece of clapboard with nails or screws. Ensure each piece overlaps the one below to prevent water infiltration.
Finishing Touches Apply a weather-resistant finish to protect the clapboard from the elements. Regularly check and maintain the cladding to ensure its longevity.
Photos and Videos Include before and after photos, and step-by-step videos to guide you through the process. Visual aids can help clarify each stage of the work.

Clapboard is a practical and fashionable way to improve the durability and appearance of your outdoor space by cladding balconies. You can get a finish that looks professional and is weatherproof by choosing the right material and following the installation instructions.

A long-lasting outcome is guaranteed by selecting premium clapboard and meticulously preparing the surface. The key to preventing common problems like warping or peeling is proper installation. Your cladded balcony will look fantastic and offer superior protection and insulation if you take the proper approach.

With a little perseverance and a review of the provided images and videos, you can successfully complete this project without assistance. Plasterboard cladding is a visually pleasing and functional material that can be used for new balcony construction or renovation.

Video on the topic

Cladding the balcony with clapboard

Options for finishing the balcony inside

Exterior decoration of balconies and loggias

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Veronica Gerasimova

Interior designer, author of books on the design of residential premises. I will help you make your home not only functional, but also beautiful.

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